Frequently Asked Questions

• Please be sure your outside water source is turned on as we connect to your water spigot.
• Please be sure ALL windows are closed/locked tight. 
• We kindly ask that you remove all potted and hanging plants from any porch/deck/walkway areas. We will work around heavier items such as grills and furniture or move from side to side if we can. 
• There IS a chlorine component in our cleaning solution. Great efforts are made to rinse down all plants, trees and vegetation surrounding the house prior to the start of the job and when completed. 
• If you have ANY concerns regarding the above items, we ask that you cover any plants/vegetation that you are concerned about. We are not responsible for any damage done to plants, trees or vegetation if not properly covered by the homeowner as we are using chlorine as part of our solution to kill the old/mildew on your home.

• You do not need to be home on the day of service provided you have properly prepped your home for service (see prep instructions above) and payment has been made prior to or properly arranged with Pam. 
• If you are covering your plants as discussed above, it is recommended that you schedule on a day that you are home to cover/uncover upon our arrival and departure. 

• We make every effort to stay on schedule. Reasons for rescheduling may include heavy rain, high winds or lightning. If we do need to reschedule, we will be sure to get your job done asap. 

• We accept personal checks, cash or Venmo payments. We do not accept credit cards at this time. 

                             Venmo payments are payable to @Dougs-Powerwashing 

• No, we DO NOT power wash roofs. We will however apply a roof treatment with any full house power washing at no charge while power washing the house. Please see the section on the back of this sheet regarding roof treatments.

• We do not clean out/flush out the gutters. We clean the outsides of the gutters·as part of our service; however, we do recommend "Dan's Gutter Cleaning Service, LLC" 860-389-6329 for that service! 

• Your roof will be treated with Jomax Roof Cleaner and Mildew Stain Remover IF the entire house is being power washed due to the overspray. This solution is sprayed onto your roof to all affected areas with mold, mildew, liken mold spores, moss and streaking. Please note that you may NOT see immediate results with this treatment.
• Once the Jomax is sprayed onto the roof, it will soak into the affected areas. It will then begin to die and stop the growth. 
• Once the mold has died off it will begin to break down naturally and wash off with the rain. Please note this process may take several weeks or months to fully see the effect of the treatment.
• We have found this treatment to be the safest and most effective way to treat roofs. Not only can direct power washing blow shingles off the roof, it can cause major damage and remove grit from the shingle, therefore lessening the life of your roof.
• Should you find that your roof needs another treat 3 months after the initial treatment, we will be happy to provide that service. The cost for the additional treatment is $50.

• Most siding manufactures have strategically placed weep holes on the bottom lip. The siding is equipped with these holes in an attempt to release trapped moisture during heavy dew points and moisture buildup during rain/snow. 
• We make every effort to do a very thorough rinse, however depending on the age and construction of the siding, it could take several hours (and long after we're gone) for any drainage to finish and will show dirt running down the siding that has built up over· time in the weeping holes.
• We get many calls saying we "missed areas'', however it is the weeping hole drainage that you see.

• Most siding manufactures have strategically placed weep holes on the bottom lip. The siding is equipped with these holes in an attempt to release trapped moisture during heavy dew points and moisture buildup during rain/snow. 
• We make every effort to do a very thorough rinse, however depending on the age and construction of the siding, it could take several hours (and long after we're gone) for any drainage to finish and will show dirt running down the siding that has built up over· time in the weeping holes.
• We get many calls saying we "missed areas'', however it is the weeping hole drainage that you see.

• Artillery fungus is a white-rotting, wood-decaying fungus that likes to live on moist landscape mulch. It is very common across the U.S., especially in the East.
• Artillery fungus is small black spots that look like specks of tar. The spots are "alive" but not in the sense they can hurt your siding. They pose no threat to the siding other than staining it.
• Artillery fungus or "shot-gun" fungus is "phototropic", that is it shoots towards the light. Therefore it will shoot its' spores towards direct light or reflective light such as siding on a house.
• Artillery fungus grows better and produces more spores during wet years. It is especially common during cool spring and fall. The artillery fungus also grows better in the mulch on the cool, shady side of the house (usually the north side of the house in the Northeast) where growing conditions are more suitable for the fungus.
• The spore masses of the artillery fungus stick like super-glue. We have not found a way to get them off without leaving a stain or damaging the siding ... especially on older siding. Power washing may work on brand new (only) vinyl siding that still has a shiny, oily sheen. 
• When scraping artillery fungus off of houses, a common mistake is letting them fall back into the mulch where it originated from. Such spores are dormant, but very much alive and then inoculate the mulch.
• Not all mulch breeds the artillery fungus. Of 27 mulches tested, the two most resistant mulches are the large pine bark nuggets and shredded cypress (not finely ground) mulch. The large nuggets are hard and dry ... conditions the artillery fungus does not like. The cypress most likely contains some anti-fungal, anti-decay chemicals.
• It has been our experience that bagged mulch is less likely to carry the artillery fungus because it is sealed and tends to choke off the breeding process.